Like many people, I watched the latest documentary from Channel 4 with much interest. But Joe Wicks: Licensed to Kill did not turn out to be a fly-on-the-wall series about training the nation’s lockdown PE teacher to become a member of the Secret Service. Instead, he joined Dr Chris van Tulleken on a quest to expose the dangers of ultra-processed foods, where they pitted themselves against the super-heavyweights of snacking, protein bars. These chewy monstrosities were once something that only those seeking marginal gains would scoff at the gym but they now permeate every newsagent, supermarket checkout and office countertop. Since protein bars are commonly sold under the innocent guise of being a healthy snack, the daring duo set out to show how lax regulations were allowing them to be anything but.
In order to highlight some of the potentially harmful ingredients that many of the leading protein bars on the market contain, they decided to create their own pushing the legally allowed limits. As they got to work, the harms of consuming ultra-processed foods was repeated like a mantra and their ingredients were unashamedly linked to cancer, diabetes and early death. The message could not have been clearer, that ultra-processed foods were real killers. So they could only christen their Frankenstein-esque creation as the Killer Bar. The programme finished as they produced and sold the bars they had intentionally made to be harmful to human health, while they watched in horror as the orders began to trickle in.
Although the programme was somewhat sensationalist, it made some valid points about food regulations, advertising and additives, in particular. However, it would be a mistake to believe that all ultra-processed foods and indeed, all protein bars, are the same. In fact, there are many ultra-processed foods that are healthy and sustainable. So to lump them in with the Turkey Twizzlers of the day is simply lazy. For example, according to the widely accepted NOVA definition, many sustainable healthy vegetarian foods which replace meat and dairy sources such as plant milks, mycoprotein (Quorn) and plain soya mince are classified as being ultra-processed foods. Do these any of these sound like real killers??
But not everyone is aware that NOVA doesn’t classify foods according to their nutrients. And also included in this ultra-processed category are baby formulas and baby foods, fruit yoghurts, margarines and spreads, breakfast cereals and mass produced breads. Clearly, consuming these types of ultra-processed foods will not lead you to an early death. In fact, there is evidence that some breakfast cereals and breads which contain added fibre may actually reduce the risk of some cancers. Do we really want the public to go back to slathering on butter liberally every morning because it is less processed, when we know that margarines and spreads can help to lower cholesterol and protect your heart?
Of course, there are plenty of ultra-processed foods that are far from healthy. In particular, the regular consumption of meat products such as sausages or sugary drinks increases your risk of developing cancer, diabetes and heart disease. But to solely focus on the level of processing and equate this to a measure of health is a mistake. Especially when there are far simpler methods of determining and regulating what is unhealthy.
It is better to focus on reducing the consumption of foods and drinks that are energy dense and high in saturated fat, salt and sugar (HFSS foods) rather than be fixated on the level of processing. This is because HFSS foods will naturally include all of the unhealthy ultra-processed foods you should be steering clear of, such as some of the infamous protein bars. It will also cover the other unhealthy HFSS foods and drinks which may be less processed according to NOVA but are just as unhealthy. For example, honey, fruit juices, some processed meat, bacon, palm oil and coconut fat are not considered ultra-processed but you shouldn’t consume them regularly if you want to maintain good health.
Lastly, whilst Joe Wicks: Licensed to Kill has prompted debate about food regulations, I fear that it has also missed an opportunity. By concentrating on one type of ultra-processed food and linking it to a risk of cancer, diabetes and early death they simply demonised it and its consumers. However, there are many reasons why people rely on protein bars and unhealthy ultra-processed foods. And fearmongering and shaming will not help to address any of this. Because if you truly want to reduce the nation’s reliance on HFSS foods and some of the ultra-processed baddies, you’re going to have do a lot more than come up with a killer of a recipe.
Speaking of which, if you are looking for a healthy snack that tastes far better than any protein bar, here’s a seasonal recipe for Pumpkin and pecan bread. It tastes great on its own or toasted and spread with PB for an extra protein fix. But it also makes a great accompaniment to a meal.
